AghaRTA

Last Saturday, some friends and I met up in Prague to support one of our fellow Fulbrighters, Rory Stuart. He is a jazz guitarist and composer in New York as well as a professor at the New School. Through the Fulbright program, Rory was invited as a guest professor to teach for one academic semester at the Janacek Academy of Music and Performing Arts in Brno. Additionally, he has been able to perform with some amazing Czech musicians throughout the Czech Republic, which is why we went to Prague; to see him perform!

First, we met up for dinner and drinks at Potrefená husa Hybernská, a traditional Czech chain restaurant found in Prague. I must say, the food and atmosphere were great!

Jana, Rudolf, Me,  & Twee

Stefan, Guy, Barbara & Harry

Then, we headed over to the AghaRTA Jazz Club, where we had already reserved tickets and tables for the performance. One of the many aspects I love about Prague is its nightlife, where there are tons of establishments underground. Like, literally, you walk down tiny staircases to get into bars and clubs in the basements of buildings. It reminds me of America during the 1920s, with bootleggers, flappers, and speakeasies galore. Alright, so it's not exactly the same, but it's an intriguing experience regardless.

Entrance to AghaRTA

Lobby/Bar Area

Main Room

It was a nice, cozy setting, but one I could totally imagine for a Jazz club. Albeit, none of us had ever even been to a Jazz concert before! Rory played the guitar, Jaromir Honzak played the double bass, Vit Krist'an was on the piano, and Tomas Hobzek on the drums. Below you can see some clips from their performance.

Twee, Guy, Harry & Stefan

Jana, Rudolf, Rory, Barbara & I

I enjoyed the performance, especially because each musician was so passionate about their instrument, and music in general. The looks on their faces as they played really made me feel the music even more. After viewing the clips, perhaps you'll want to see a jazz concert in the future, but I also know that the jazz vibe isn't for everyone. My favorite pieces were the more upbeat, jovial ones, but the classics were just as entertaining. We'll miss you, Rory!

Český Krumlov

In the autumn, Jana and Rudolf accompanied my mother and I to Český Krumlov, one of the most beautiful towns in the Czech Republic. This town was actually one of the very first protected UNESCO (United Nations Educational, Scientific, and Cultural Organization) World Heritage sites in this country, mainly due to it's original medieval architecture that sustained the test of time. If you'd like to learn more about UNESCO, you can click here. Basically, a lot of money goes into preserving the historical centre and keeping its history alive for future generations.

Český Krumlov

Me and Mom

Rudolf & Jana

Jana, Me, & Mom

After the first of November, most of the castles and major tourist attractions close for the winter (until March 31st). However, Český Krumlov has a museum that is opened all year round. Below are some of the castle's furnishings from the 17th-19th centuries.

Dining Room Table

There was many varieties of porcelain dining-ware, tea sets, and vases in all different colors and patterns. It was obvious that the Silk Trade (trade between Europe and Asia) made these luxuries easily accessible to aristocratic families. For those of you who do not know, porcelain originated in China (as well as paper and gunpowder)!

Porcelain Vases

Porcelain Tea Set

I was intrigued by this early form of a wheelchair. It may not look that comfortable, but at least the injured and disabled could get around more easily, well that is, once they were already inside the castle, and if they could stay on the ground floor. There were no such things as handicap-accessible features in castles (or any type of buildings or homes) back in the day, such as ramps or elevators. Actually, come to think of it, many places in the Czech Republic are still not handicap-accessible today. I have seen older people on crutches have to ask for help from young men to get on and off the escalators for the subways in Prague. It's honestly quite disturbing considering there are so many rules and regulations regarding this topic in America. The elderly, injured, and disabled are truly dependent on others here, but at the same time, people always seem delighted to help. It's not seen as an inconvenience to them as it often is in New York.

Wheelchair

This next picture is just down-right comical. Aristocratic families even wanted their relieving stations to seem luxurious. They could not just sit on a normal toilet seat, but had to have them disguised as furniture when guests were around. G-d forbid anyone thought they actually used the toilet!

Toilets

Wash Basin

On top of the bed in the picture below, you will see a coal heater. Many families used to take coal from the fires and put it in this pan, then put the pan underneath the mattress to keep the bed warm. One could also call it a bed-warmer. However, many times, the mattresses were made from hay or straw and they actually caught on fire. So although it seemed like a good idea, it was often quite dangerous.

Bed with Coal Heater

Tea Time

Below is the actual body remains of St. Reparat, which were excavated from the catacombs (underground cemetery) in the late 1700s. It's basically a shrine, where Christians could pay respect to early Christian martyrs, or people who died for their religious beliefs. If you would like to learn more about the Castle Museum and its artifacts, you can click here.

After the museum, we climbed the stairs of the tower. 

Midway through, there was a gate that enclosed the tower prison.

If you look closely, it seems at least one person never made it out of the prison alive! 

The tower had four large, magnificent bells as well. 

Of course, there were gorgeous views once we climbed to the top (roughly six stories).

Český Krumlov

Castle Courtyard

The first aristocratic family to live in Český Krumlov was the Rosenbergs (in 1302). Since their coat of arms had grizzly bears on it, they decided to keep bears in the moat of the castle. Beer-keeping has existed at the castle since the 16th century. Though we only saw one bear, there are apparently four currently living here.

Bears

Jana, Me, & Mom

The Rosenbergs sold the castle to the Eggenbergs during the 17th century. After dying without an heir, the castle was, surprise, surprise, given to the Schwarzenberg family, relatives of the Eggenbergs. It was during the 19th century, under the Schwarzenbergs, that the castle and town reached its greatest height culturally, socially, and politically. The castle remained in this family's possession until 1947 (just like Hluboka).

After climbing back down the tower, we decided to roam the castle's gardens. We were greeted by a gorgeous stairway with statues of humans and angels as well as a large, elaborate water fountain. 

Although it was autumn, many of the trees already started to die and become bare. 

Nevertheless, it was still a magical sight.

Something that is truly unique at Český Krumlov is its rotating Baroque theater, or rather, I should say its rotating auditorium (seats for the audience). Due to the rotating auditorium, the actors not only use the stage for their performance, but can continue acting, especially fight scenes, on the lawn and behind trees, too. I'm really determined to see a performance here this summer, as the theater is outside. I hear it is quite the experience! 

Stage Backdrop

Rotating Auditorium

 Lastly, we went to the man-made pond and took some photos.

Mom

I was actually able to fit inside this tree!

Me

Jana

Overall, it was a beautiful day for touring and sight-seeing. I would list Český Krumlov as one of the top places to visit in the Czech Republic, for anyone thinking of coming one day!

Vánoce a Nový Rok

As previously written, the Christmas (Vánoce) season typically begins the last weekend in November, with the lighting of the Christmas trees in the town squares and the start of the Advent/Christmas markets. Depending on the size of the town, these markets can be held for only one weekend, like in Strakonice, or for three full weeks leading up to Christmas, such as in Prague. You've already seen photos from the market in Prague's Old Town Square (See: Holiday Season), but here are some from Prague's Wenceslas Square in the New Town.

In the picture below, you can see a woman in the bottom right holding a sausage. They are pretty popular at fairs and markets in the Czech Republic, but again, the ones in Germany are way better.

Trdelnik, a popular Czech sweet, has a doughy substance with a cinnamon flavor.

Each stall is different, but many contain these glass Christmas balls that are elaborately painted. I bought one for my Christmas tree back home!

Some of the stalls are not holiday oriented, but sell things to keep you warm in the cold.

Some sell wooden toys for children.

Others sell different chocolates and sweets.

The week before Christmas, some friends and I went to Český Krumlov (I'll blog more about this town in my next post) to see their Christmas markets. Generally speaking, the markets are all pretty much the same, but we like to get out and about and view the different atmospheres around the Czech Republic.

Barbara, Harrison, Rosie, Lee, Me

Barbara and Me

Rosie & Lee

On this day, the elementary schools in Český Krumlov were putting on a performance in the town square. We saw interesting skits, dances, and vocal acts from the children.

Baby Jesus Skit

We found this ice sculpture comical. We're not really sure what it was originally supposed to represent, but clearly it started melting at some point. It looks like a baby dinosaur to me.

Naturally, we could not visit a Christmas market without getting a mug of svařák. They give you the option of returning the mug to get 50 korunas back, or keeping it. We all opted to keep the mugs because they were beautiful as well as a keep-sake. As you can see below, Lee was the only smart one who actually held the decorated side of the mug for people to see, so thanks Lee!

Me, Rosie, & Lee

The next step in the Czech holiday season is St. Nicholas Day (See: Mikuláš, Anděl a Čert). Afterward, everyone prepares for Christmas by buying their tree and various presents. However, the Czechs are extremely modest compared to Americans. I would not compare their Christmas trees to Charlie Brown's, but they are roughly medium-sized (from the floor to chest-height). Czechs usually put them up no more than one week before Christmas. As for decorating the tree, the lights are simple and one color. If the tree even has any ornaments, they are only one type. For example, just red balls or just wooden soldiers. Not many Czechs decorate the outside of their flats or homes.

There is no such thing as Santa Claus here, but there is Ježišek, or Little Jesus, which in a way is a Czech version of Santa Claus. Ježišek is an abstract figure with no particular physical image attached to him. Also, no one knows where he lives, but children do write letters to Ježišek and put them on their windows for him to find a few weeks before Christmas. When they wake up the next day, of course Ježišek has come and taken their letters away. 

The main time for celebrating here is December 24th, or Christmas Eve. Many Czechs fast before Christmas Eve dinner. In fact, there is even a superstition that if you fast throughout the day, you may see a vision of the "golden pig" appear on the wall. If you do, this will bring you good luck for the following year. 

The traditional dinner is "Christmas Carp". Actually, my friend was invited to a "Pond Draining Party", which it turns out, is exactly what it sounds like. People from the surrounding villages come to the pond and drink beers and talk as they watch the pond drain. It's a community event that everyone looks forward to as the workers collect the carp (a type of fish) that was raised in the pond. The carp is sold from large tubs in the town squares a few days before Christmas. Some families even keep the carp alive in their bathtub to keep as a "pet" for their children before Christmas! 

The dinner consists of fish soup (made from carp) as an appetizer followed by fried carp and potato salad for the entree. 

Carp Soup

Fried Carp and Potato Salad

While everyone is eating dinner, Ježišek comes through the window and leaves presents underneath the tree. When he is finished, he rings a bell for the family to hear. You see, Ježišek is a baby, so therefore he cannot read a calendar, and accidentally brings the presents a day early each year (on Christmas Eve). When everyone finishes dinner, they open their presents. Then, if the family is religious, they sing Christmas carols and later attend Midnight Mass, or church on Christmas Day. Just as in the United States, many people wind up celebrating the commercialized form of this holiday. People do not understand its religious message, the birth of Jesus and coming of our Savior, and that it is a Christian holiday.

Christmas Eve is generally spent with just the nuclear family (parents and children), then on Christmas Day everyone meets up with their extended families. Czechs also celebrate December 26th, or St. Stephan's Day, but it seems to be a day of rest and relaxation with the family. This year, students had two weeks off from school (as many did in the States) due to the dates of the holidays. Ironically, out of about 200 students, nearly everyone stayed in their own towns with their family and friends. It is not so typical for Czechs to go on vacation as often as Americans do.

The holiday season comes to an end with New Year's Eve/New Year's Day (Nový Rok). Most aspects of this holiday are the same throughout the world. People gather with friends or family to reminisce and reflect on the past year as they ring in the New Year together. Many Czechs either stayed at home or went to a pub or restaurant. There were some specials on television, but no official countdown like there is in New York City. Czechs toast with Champagne at midnight as well. There is one tradition, however, that is different. At midnight, Czechs either watch fireworks or do them themselves, ranging from firecrackers and sparklers to the bigger explosives. This reminded me more of our Independence Day (July 4th) traditions.

Though I was not in the Czech Republic for Christmas and New Years (as I went back to the States for two weeks), I did create a Powerpoint and present about Christmas traditions in the States before I departed. We had great discussions about the similarities and differences between the holiday traditions between Czechs and Americans, which is why I was able to elaborate so much about them here. I think we all found the topic quite interesting!